Monday, June 3, 2013

Rodarte: 12th Place Collection







12. Rodarte Spring 2013

Spring 2013: Key Looks

I guess this ranking has to start somewhere, so why not the present? Still, it’s funny to me that the collection I’ve ranked lowest is from the current fashion season… 

Photo by Autumn de WIlde

There’s always a lovely amalgamation of ideas in a single Rodarte collection; part of the allure of the brand is the Mulleavys’ ability to weave these kind of unique and incongruent themes they explore into a focused statement or narrative.  Spring 2013 was no exception.

Spring 2013: Key Looks

For this collection, Kate and Laura explored medieval fantasy role-playing games.  The result was especially zeitgeist-y, drawing Game of Thrones comparisons from a number of critics.  Though I don’t watch the show, the connection was easy to make – looks ranged from those with a distinctly armor-like feel (see Jourdan Dunn’s amazing top) to flowy, Ren-faire style gowns.
 
Photo by Autumn de Wilde
In between, though, was a distinct focus on geometry.  In my opinion, some of the collection’s most successful looks paired a silk tee featuring a Malevich-esque trapezoid on the front with paneled miniskirts.  That trapezoidal shape was almost obsessively repeated in the garments, usually featuring some sort of pleating that really nipped in at the girls’ waists, blending the geometric aspects of the work with the armor-like. 


Spring 2013 Shoes

 As with previous (and future) seasons, the leather pieces were key components of the Spring 2013 girl’s wardrobe, though they left me ambivalent; I adored the fringed biker vests, but wasn’t a fan of the pants.  What I’ve grown to appreciate about Rodarte is the fact that their work feels handcrafted, and as such, impacts me like artwork rather than clothing.  I also thought the way that they treated the crocheted pieces, which are typically staples of any Rodarte collection, was interesting.  We’ve seen a kind of progression from tattered, loosely woven knits to sturdier pieces, but this season featured an almost textile-like crocheted treatment on sweater and skirt pieces.  
 
Backstage c/o Vogue.com
What was missing for me in this collection – the reason I ranked it 12th – was the romance I associate with Rodarte.  I always appreciate the intellect of the Mulleavys’ collections, but for some reason, I just didn’t connect to the reference points they explored this season, so it became a bit less appreciable to me. 


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